India's journey towards self-reliance in the beauty sector began in 1952 with the launch of Lakmé, the nation's first indigenous cosmetics brand. This pioneering initiative, driven by Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru's economic concerns, aimed to prevent Indian women from spending valuable foreign currency on imported Western makeup. Industrialist JRD Tata took on the challenge, establishing Lakmé as a homegrown alternative that would eventually redefine Indian beauty standards and empower women's self-expression.
ANational Economic Need[theprint+3]
In the early years following India's independence in 1947, Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru grew concerned about the significant amount of foreign exchange Indian women spent on Western makeup brands. He saw this outflow of precious currency as an economic drain on the newly independent nation. Nehru approached industrialist JRD Tata, then head of the Tata Group, to find a solution and create a domestic cosmetics brand. This direct appeal led to the establishment of Lakmé in 1952, under the subsidiary of Tata Oil Mills Company (TOMCO). Thebrand was envisioned as a "Make in India" project, long before the term became widely used.[theprint+7]
Building a Brand for India[theprint]
The name Lakmé itself has a unique blend of Indian and European influences. While it sounds French, it was inspired by a popular French opera named Lakmé, whose protagonist was in turn inspired by the Indian goddess Lakshmi, known for beauty. French collaborators Robert Piguet and Renoir suggested the name, aiming to fuse Indian mythology with a European aesthetic. This strategic naming helped the brand appeal to Indian sensibilities while still carrying the allure of Western beauty culture.[theprint+5]
Lakmé was groundbreaking for the Indian market because it offered cosmetics specifically suitable for Indian skin types. Extensive research went into developing products that met the needs of Indian consumers. In 1961, JRD Tata's Swiss wife, Simone Tata, took over as managing director, playing an instrumental role in shaping the brand. Her leadership transformed Lakmé into a household name through aggressive marketing strategies, including regular surveys and advertisements. Simone Tata became the company's chairperson in 1982.[m+7]
Lakmé's early advertising aimed to break taboos around wearing makeup in India, where cosmetics were sometimes associated with extravagance. The brand's campaigns featured supermodel Shyamoli Verma, who became known as the "Lakmé girl." Verma appeared in traditional attire, adorned with Lakmé products, and posed with Indian musical instruments, creating an image that blended modernity with Indianness. The tagline "If colour be to beauty what music is to mood, play on" captured this innovative approach.[theprint+6]
Lakmé's Enduring Legacy[theprint]
Lakmé's entry into the market introduced Indian women to the idea that beauty could be an expression of confidence and self-expression, rather than just indulgence. It became a cultural marker, redefining how generations of Indian women related to beauty and modernity. The brand successfully positioned itself as a makeup line made for the Indian woman, suitable for Indian skin tones, climate, and household budgets.[m+1]
Over the decades, Lakmé continued to evolve, roping in prominent Bollywood actors like Rekha, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, Kareena Kapoor Khan, and Ananya Panday as brand endorsers. In 1996, Lakmé formed a 50:50 merger with Hindustan Unilever, and two years later, Tata divested its 50 percent share to Hindustan Unilever, a company with extensive experience in the global fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) market.[youtube+2]
Today, Lakmé remains a leading Indian cosmetics brand, offering a wide range of color cosmetics and skincare products. It also operates a network of Lakmé Salons and is the title sponsor for Lakmé Fashion Week, a major fashion event in India. The brand's journey from its inception in 1952 reflects India's broader economic and cultural development, embodying the spirit of self-reliance and local innovation that resonates with the modern "Atmanirbhar Bharat" initiative. Simone Tata, who passed away in December 2025 at 95, left a lasting legacy through the brand she propelled into national consciousness, creating an instrument of social change for Indian women.[theprint+7]
