Italian luxury fashion house Prada will launch a limited-edition collection of 2,000 Kolhapuri-inspired sandals in February 2026. This collaboration with Indian artisans follows a controversy six months ago where Prada faced criticism for designs resembling the traditional Indian footwear. Each pair of the new sandals will retail for about 800 euros, approximately $930 or ₹84,000. T^{[1][2][3][4][5][6][7][8][9]}he collection will be available across 40 Prada stores worldwide and through online channels. ^{[1][2][10][3][11][4][5][12][6][7][13][14][8][9]}From Controversy to Collaboration The collaboration comes after Prada's Spring/Summer 2026 collection, showcased in Milan in June 2025, featured tan leather sandals strikingly similar to Kolhapuri chappals. I^{[1][2][3][15][16][5][7][17][18][8][9][19]}mages of these designs quickly spread online, sparking widespread outrage from Indian craftspeople and politicians. C^{[1][2][3][16][5][7][9]}ritics accused the brand of cultural appropriation for showcasing footwear that resembled the 12th-century Indian style without proper credit or compensation to its origins. ^{[1][2][16][7][9]}The controversy intensified because Kolhapuri chappals received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in July 2019. T^{[15][16][20][12][18][13][21][22][23][19]}his GI tag legally identifies products originating from a specific location, ensuring their unique qualities and reputation are tied to that place. T^[16][19]he Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture, on behalf of thousands of Kolhapuri sandal-makers, complained about the resemblance and the lack of acknowledgment. ^[15][16]Prada acknowledged its design drew inspiration from ancient Indian styles and began discussions with artisan communities. I^{[1][2][3][15][16][5][7][9]}n July 2025, a team of four technical experts from Prada, led by Paolo Tiveron, director of the men's technical and production department for footwear, visited Kolhapur. T^{[11][24][12][25]}hey engaged directly with local artisans, visiting their homes and factories to understand the traditional craft. ^{[11][24][12][25]}A Partnership for Preservation and Progress Prada has now signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with two state-backed Indian organizations: Sant Rohidas Leather Industries and Charmakar Development Corporation (LIDCOM) in Maharashtra and Dr. Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation (LIDKAR) in Karnataka. T^{[1][2][10][15][11][24][20][12][6][7][17][13][14][8][25][9]}he MoU was signed on Wednesday, December 11, 2025, at the Italian Consulate in Mumbai during the Italy-India Business Council meeting. ^{[10][15][11][6][17][13][14][25]}This agreement officially launches the "PRADA Made in India x Inspired by Kolhapuri Chappals" project. U^{[10][15][20][13][25]}nder this initiative, Prada will produce 2,000 pairs of limited-edition sandals. T^{[1][2][3][4][5][6][7][8][9]}hese sandals will be manufactured in India, involving skilled artisans from the regions of Maharashtra and Karnataka. S^{[2][10][3][24][20][5][7][13][25][9]}pecifically, production will occur in districts like Kolhapur, Sangli, Satara, and Solapur in Maharashtra, and Belagavi, Bagalkot, Dharwad, and Bijapur in Karnataka. ^{[2][10][15][20][18][13][14][21][23]}The project aims to blend centuries-old traditional manufacturing techniques of Kolhapuri chappals with Prada's contemporary design and premium materials. L^{[10][15][24][20][13][14][25]}orenzo Bertelli, Prada's Chief Marketing Officer and Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, told Reuters that the company will "mix the original manufacturer's standard capabilities with our manufacturing techniques." B^{[2][5][6][7][9]}ertelli, the eldest son of Prada founders Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli, also stated, "We want to be a multiplier of awareness for these chappals." H^{[1][2][11][7][9]}e added that the project and associated training programs would cost "several million euros," with artisans receiving fair remuneration. ^[2][5][7]The Enduring Legacy of Kolhapuri Chappals Kolhapuri chappals are Indian handcrafted, braided leather slip-on sandals. T^[18][23]hey are traditionally tanned using vegetable dyes and are known for their open-toed, T-strap design with a loop for the big toe. T^[20][18][23]he origin of Kolhapuri chappals dates back to the 12th century, with King Bijjala and his prime minister Basavanna encouraging their production to support local cobblers. T^{[1][16][18][21][22]}he craft gained significant momentum in the 13th century and was further fostered by Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj of Kolhapur in the 20th century. ^[18][21][22]These chappals are a crucial part of India's cultural heritage. Their Geographical Indication (GI) tag, granted in 2019, protects their authenticity and cultural significance. T^{[15][16][20][12][18][13][14][21][22][23][19]}his tag ensures that only chappals made in the specified districts of Maharashtra and Karnataka can be called "Kolhapuri chappals." D^[18][21][23]espite their rich history and GI status, the craft faces challenges from cheap imitations and declining demand. ^{[1][2][5][8][22]}Empowering Artisans, Boosting Global Recognition A crucial aspect of the three-year partnership is the establishment of training programs for local artisans. T^{[1][2][15][11][24][5][12][7][13][8][25][9]}hese programs, modeled after the Prada Group Academy, aim to help artisans upscale their skills while preserving traditional craftsmanship. T^{[15][11][12][7][13][8][25][9]}he initiative will include training in India and opportunities for artisans to spend short periods at Prada's Academy in Italy. ^[1][7][8][9]Artisans hope this collaboration will significantly boost their incomes, attract younger generations to the traditional trade, and help preserve their cultural heritage. P^{[1][2][5][12][8]}rerna Deshbhratar, Managing Director of LIDCOM, called the partnership "extremely significant for honouring generations of artisans who have preserved traditional art." S^{[2][10][12][17][13][25]}he added that a global brand working directly with artisans from Maharashtra and Karnataka would give their craftsmanship worldwide identity and full credit. D^{[10][12][17][13][25]}r. K.M. Vasundhara, Managing Director of LIDKAR, also noted that the collaboration "opens new global opportunities for Karnataka's artisans" through training, employment, and sustainable livelihoods. ^{[10][12][13][25]}The project has received strong support from the Maharashtra government. C^[10][14]ommerce and Industry Minister Piyush Goyal highlighted the immense global potential of India's traditional footwear industry. S^[4][17]peaking at the India-Italy Business Forum plenary session in Mumbai, Goyal stated that Kolhapuri chappals alone could become a "$1 billion export category." H^[4]e welcomed Prada's decision to manufacture the sandals locally and take them to international markets, emphasizing that "our craftsmen and artisans will work together to make this a global brand." ^[4]This partnership represents a significant step in transforming a cultural appropriation controversy into an ethical collaboration. It aims to celebrate Indian craftsmanship on a global stage, ensuring fair recognition and economic empowerment for the artisans who have preserved this centuries-old tradition.

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